Discover Non-Classic Shirt Collars and Find Your Style

  • Explore the various types of non-classical collars such as the American, pigeon, Mao and Hidden Button Down.
  • Each collar offers versatility to suit formal and casual occasions.
  • Adjusting the neckline design to the face and context reinforces the elegance of the outfit.
  • Discover distinctive models that transcend traditional styles.
shirt collar

In the previous article about shirt collars , we explored the four most common classic collar styles. However, the world of shirt collars doesn't stop there. There are many less traditional options that offer unique styles and suitability for different occasions. Paying attention to collar design is crucial, as it can completely transform an outfit and adapt it to your face shape, personal style, or the event you're attending.

American collar

American or pin collar

The pin-through collar , also known as the American collar , is distinguished by a small loop or pin that connects the collar points, providing a unique decorative detail that adds elegance to the shirt. This design visually elevates the tie knot , drawing attention to this element. This collar is ideal for those seeking to attract attention with a refined detail.

This style is especially flattering for round , oval , and square faces , as it helps to streamline the overall look.

Perfect for formal and professional contexts , the pin collar should be combined with a well-defined tie and a jacket that follows classic lines.

pigeon neck

Pigeon Neck

The wing collar is designed to be a distinctive element at ceremonies and formal events. This collar is particularly well-suited to pair with bow ties , cravats, or ascot collars. Its highly formal design makes it a preferred choice for weddings , black-tie events, and other high-society engagements. Due to its elegance , it is commonly worn with tuxedos or high-quality formal suits.

It's recommended to avoid traditional dress shirts with this collar, as they don't achieve the visual impact this design aims for. With this collar, every detail matters: make sure the shirt is perfectly ironed and fitted to maximize its elegance.

Mao neck

Mao neck

The mandarin collar is a minimalist and modern design inspired by traditional Chinese clothing. It is characterized by its lack of folds and a height between 2 and 5 centimeters . This collar can be cut with straight or rounded edges, depending on the desired option.

Perfect for casual occasions or summer events, the mandarin collar offers a youthful and relaxed look . It can be paired with light blazers or even linen garments, reinforcing its casual character. It's the choice for those seeking a modern style without sacrificing comfort.

For men with long faces and short necks, the Mao design is an excellent way to balance proportions.

Hidden Button Down Collar

Hidden Button Down Collar

The Hidden Button Down is a modern variation on the traditional button-down collar. As the name suggests, the buttons that fasten the collar points are hidden, providing a cleaner , more sophisticated look . This feature makes it ideal for both formal and informal settings.

With the buttons concealed, the collar stays secure and in place, even without a tie. Its minimalist design is especially well-suited for pairing with large tie knots, creating a polished and professional look.

types of non-classical shirt collars

Other Types of Non-Classical Collars

In addition to the styles mentioned above, there are multiple non-classical collar options that can be adapted to different needs and occasions:

  • Italian Collar: Wide and open, perfect for wide ties. It flatters both long and narrow faces.
  • Opera or Wingtip Neck: Designed for bow ties, this collar is ideal for formal ceremonies and black tie events.
  • Cutaway Neck: Similar to the Italian but with a more open cut, it is a modern and risky option that stands out at semi-formal events.

Adding these collars to your wardrobe will give you a wide range of combinations and styles to explore.

types of shirt collars
Related article:
Complete Guide to Types of Shirt Collars and How to Choose the Ideal One

Choosing the perfect collar for every occasion can significantly elevate the impression you make. Whether you opt for the sophistication of a wing collar, the casual feel of a mandarin collar, or the versatility of a hidden button-down, each choice says something unique about you. Experiment with different styles and discover how the details on your shirt can make all the difference.


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